Rebuilt

Khatu Shyam Ji Temple, Khatu

The shrine of Barbarika, grandson of Bhima, whose head Shri Krishna asked for before the Mahabharata war and blessed to be worshipped in Kali Yuga by Krishna’s own name, Shyam. Lakhs walk here for the Phalgun mela.

Built: First temple 1027 CE by Roop Singh Chauhan (temple tradition); present white-marble temple rebuilt laterWhere: Rajasthan (Sikar district)Deity: Shri Shyam, the head of Barbarika27.36° N, 75.40° E
  1. 1027 CE (temple tradition)
Photo: Ansh patanker · CC0

01Haare ka sahara

Barbarika, son of Ghatotkacha, came to Kurukshetra with three arrows and a vow to fight for whichever side was losing. Shri Krishna saw that such a vow would leave no one standing, came to him as a Brahmin and asked for his head as dakshina. Barbarika gave it gladly, asking only to watch the war. Krishna set the head on a hilltop and blessed him: in Kali Yuga you will be worshipped by my name. So devotees call him Shyam Baba and Haare ka Sahara, the support of the defeated, and they come to him when every other door has closed.

02Shyam Kund and the Phalgun mela

The temple’s tradition says the head lay buried at Khatu until a cow began to pour her milk on one spot. The ground was dug, the shish was found, and Roop Singh Chauhan, the local ruler, raised a temple for it in 1027 CE after a dream. The pit is Shyam Kund, where pilgrims bathe before darshan. The great fair falls in the bright half of Phalgun and peaks on Ekadashi; for days the roads from Ringas are a river of people carrying the tall saffron nishan flags, many walking the last eighteen kilometres barefoot.

The life of this place

  1. 1027 CE (temple tradition)Roop Singh Chauhan builds the first temple over the shish found at Shyam Kund.
Visiting

Ringas on the Jaipur–Sikar line is the nearest railhead, about 17 km away. Avoid the Phalgun mela days unless you mean to walk with the crowd.