Ruined

Nagda (Nagahrada)

The lakeside town north of Udaipur where Mewar began: the boy Bappa grazed cows here and served the sage Harita, and the Guhilas ruled from here before Chittor. Its pair of carved Vishnu temples, the Sas-Bahu, still stand by the water.

Built: Early seat of the Guhilas of Mewar, 7th century; Sas-Bahu temples c. 10th centuryWhere: RajasthanDeity: Vishnu (Sas-Bahu temples); Ekalingji nearby24.73° N, 73.69° E
  1. 661 CE
  2. 8th century (tradition)
  3. c. 10th century
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY 4.0

01Harita’s shrine and Bappa

Mewar’s own tradition, set down in the Ekalinga Mahatmya and the bardic chronicles, puts the young Bappa at Nagda among the cowherds, tending a cow that gave her milk to a hidden linga. The sage Harita Rashi, who worshipped there, initiated him, and by his blessing Bappa won Chittor. The temple of Ekalingji at Kailashpuri, a short walk from Nagda, grew from that shrine, and every Maharana after him ruled as Ekalingji’s Diwan. The town itself is old: an inscription of the Guhila king Aparajita dated Vikram Samvat 718, that is 661 CE, was found at the Kundeshvara temple here.

02The Sas-Bahu temples

Of the old capital little is left but its temples. The Sas-Bahu pair, a corruption of Sahasrabahu, the thousand-armed Vishnu, stand on a common platform near the Bagela lake: the larger with a richly carved mandapa and a torana arch in front, the smaller beside it. Their pillars and ceilings are cut with apsaras, scenes of the Ramayana and the avatars, in the Maru-Gurjara manner of the tenth century. The sanctums are empty and the spires broken. The Guhila seat moved on to Chittor, and Nagda, once a royal town, became a village under the hill.

The life of this place

  1. 661 CEInscription of the Guhila king Aparajita is cut at the Kundeshvara temple, Nagda.
  2. 8th century (tradition)Bappa Rawal, disciple of Harita Rashi at Nagda, takes Chittor and founds the Ekalingji worship of the house.
  3. c. 10th centuryThe Sas-Bahu (Sahasrabahu) temples are built by the lake.
Visiting

Nagda is about 22 km north of Udaipur, a short detour from Eklingji; the Sas-Bahu temples are an ASI site.