Standing

Bhimakali Temple, Sarahan

The kuladevi of the Bushahr kingdom, in twin towers of the Kath-kuni style, wood and stone in alternate courses, with slate roofs and silver doors. Local tradition counts it among the Shakti Peethas.

Built: Old tower of interlocking wood and stone, several centuries old; a second tower in the same style built in the 1940sWhere: Himachal Pradesh (Shimla district, Sarahan above the Sutlej)Deity: Devi Bhimakali, kuladevi of the Rajas of Bushahr31.51° N, 77.80° E
  1. 1905
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY 4.0

01Shonitpur

Local tradition holds that Sarahan is the old Shonitpur, the city of Banasura, whose daughter Usha married Aniruddha, grandson of Shri Krishna, as the Bhagavata Purana tells. The Rajas of Bushahr traced their line to that marriage and kept Bhimakali as their family Devi, moving their seat between Sarahan and Rampur on the Sutlej. Bhimakali is honoured as a form of Durga who slew the asuras, and the hill tradition counts this seat among the Shakti Peethas, though it does not appear in the Ashtadasha stotra or in the Peetha Nirnaya.

02Kath-kuni towers

The temple is the finest surviving work of Kath-kuni, the Himalayan way of building in which deodar beams and dry stone are laid in alternate courses, without mortar, so that the walls flex in an earthquake. The older tower was damaged in the earthquake of 1905 and still stands, opened on festival days; a second tower was built beside it in the 1940s and the Devi now sits there, on the upper floor, reached through courtyards and silver-plated doors. Raghunathji and Narasimha have their own shrines in the complex. Leather shoes and belts are left outside, and a cap is worn inside.

The life of this place

  1. 1905The great Kangra earthquake damages the older tower, which survives.
Visiting

Sarahan is about 170 km from Shimla, above Jeori on the Hindustan–Tibet road. Dussehra and the Navaratris are the main festivals; caps are given at the gate.