Standing

Dharbaranyeswarar Temple, Thirunallar (Shani)

The Shani sthala of the Navagraha circuit, the most visited of the nine, where King Nala was freed from Shani’s grip after bathing in the Nala theertham.

Built: Sung by Appar, Sambandar and Sundarar (7th–8th century); Chola stone templeWhere: Puducherry (Karaikal district)Deity: Bhagwan Shiva as Dharbaranyeswarar with Bogamartha Poonmulaiyal; Shani Bhagwan10.93° N, 79.79° E
  1. 7th century
Photo: VasuVR · CC BY-SA 3.0

01Nala freed

The Mahabharata tells how King Nala of Nishadha, under the grip of Kali, lost his kingdom at dice and wandered apart from Damayanti for years. The temple tradition adds that his suffering ended here: he bathed in the tank, worshipped Shiva in the forest of darbha grass, and Shani, who had troubled him, let him go. The tank is called Nala Theertham. Pilgrims bathe in it, leave their old clothes behind, and break a coconut before going in to the Lord, then turn to Shani Bhagwan, whose shrine stands at the entrance of the inner court.

02The leaf that did not burn

The Periya Puranam tells that at Madurai, when the Pandya king’s court put Sambandar’s hymns to the test of fire, the palm leaf he gave was his padigam on Thirunallar, and it came out of the flames green. It is still called the Pachai Padigam, the green hymn. Appar and Sundarar also sang this Lord. Once in about two and a half years, when Shani moves into a new rashi, the Shani Peyarchi festival brings lakhs of devotees to this small town.

The life of this place

  1. 7th centurySambandar’s Thirunallar padigam survives the fire test at Madurai, as the Periya Puranam records.
Visiting

About 5 km from Karaikal. Saturdays are crowded; on Shani Peyarchi come a day early or expect long queues.