Rebuilt

Kalika Mata, Pavagadh

A Devi temple on the summit of Pavagadh above Champaner. After Mahmud Begada took the hill in 1484, a dargah stood on the temple’s top; in June 2022 a new shikhar was completed and the dhwaja flown again, for the first time in about five centuries.

Built: Ancient hill shrine; shikhar rebuilt and flag raised 2022Where: Gujarat (Panchmahal district)Deity: Mahakali, with Mahalakshmi and Bahuchara22.46° N, 73.51° E
  1. 1484 CE
  2. 2004 CE
  3. 18 June 2022
Photo: Arian Zwegers from Brussels, Belgium · CC BY 2.0

01The fall of Champaner

Pavagadh was the stronghold of the Khichi Chauhans of Champaner. In 1482–84 Mahmud Begada, sultan of Gujarat, besieged it for about twenty months. When it fell in 1484 the last raja, Jaisingh, called Patai Rawal, was wounded, captured and put to death after refusing to accept Islam; the women performed jauhar. Mahmud moved his capital to Champaner, and a shrine of the pir Sadan Shah was raised on the top of the Kalika temple. Worship below it never stopped. Champaner–Pavagadh became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.

02The flag returns

By agreement with the dargah’s custodians, the dargah was moved to an adjoining spot and the temple was rebuilt with a full shikhar. On 18 June 2022 the Prime Minister unveiled it and the red dhwaja was raised on the shikhar. Pilgrims reach the top by a ropeway and the last stretch of steps; at Navratri the climb goes on through the night. Mahakali sits at the centre of the sanctum, with Mahalakshmi and Bahuchara Mata beside her.

The life of this place

  1. 1484 CEMahmud Begada takes Pavagadh after a long siege; a dargah is built over the temple.
  2. 2004 CEChampaner–Pavagadh made a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  3. 18 June 2022Rebuilt shikhar unveiled and the dhwaja raised.
Visiting

About 50 km from Vadodara. Drive to Machi, take the ropeway, then climb about 250 steps.