Standing

Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur

A roofless ring of sandstone, about 7.5 metres across, in the paddy fields 15 km from Bhubaneswar, with sixty-four Yoginis in black chlorite standing in niches round its inner wall.

Built: 9th century CEWhere: OdishaDeity: The sixty-four Yoginis, with Mahamaya20.22° N, 85.85° E
  1. 9th century
  2. 1953
Photo: Krishnan Iyer · CC BY-SA 3.0

01Open to the sky

Yogini temples are round and open to the sky, the shape of the chakra worshipped in Kaula sadhana. At Hirapur the entrance is a narrow passage, so low you bend to enter. Inside, each Yogini stands on her vahana: one on an antelope, one on a ram, one on a corpse, one on a lotus. In the centre is a small mandapa, the Chandi mandapa, and the presiding Devi in the circle is Mahamaya. The outer wall has nine female guardians in niches.

02Rediscovered

The village never stopped worshipping Mahamaya, but scholars came to the temple only in 1953, when the Odisha historian Kedarnath Mahapatra reported it. Some images were damaged over the centuries and a few are missing. It is one of only a handful of Yogini temples in Bharat, with Ranipur-Jharial in Odisha and those at Bheraghat and Mitaoli in Madhya Pradesh.

The life of this place

  1. 9th centuryThe circular temple and its sixty-four Yoginis are made.
  2. 1953Kedarnath Mahapatra brings the temple to scholarly notice.
Visiting

Open daily; the temple is small, so go in early morning when the priest is present and the light falls inside.