Standing

Mukteshwar Temple, Bhubaneswar

A small sandstone temple, barely 10 metres high, that marks the turn from the early to the mature Kalinga style. Its arched torana is found nowhere else in Odisha.

Built: c. 950–975 CE, Somavamshi periodWhere: OdishaDeity: Shiva as Mukteshwara20.24° N, 85.84° E
  1. c. 950–975
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 3.0

01The torana

Before the temple stands a free gateway of two pillars and a rounded arch, carved with smiling female figures reclining along its curve and strings of beads. It frames the deula like a picture. The temple behind is the first in Bhubaneswar to have a jagamohana with a stepped pyramidal roof, the form the later Lingaraja and Jagannath halls would follow. Its walls show lean ascetics teaching under trees, monkeys from the Panchatantra, and nagas and naginis wound round pilasters.

02Siddharanya

Mukteshwar stands in a cluster the tradition calls Siddharanya, the grove of the siddhas, beside the larger Siddheshwar temple and a sacred tank, the Marichi Kunda, whose water women bathe in for the blessing of children. Kedar Gouri is a short walk away. Each January the Odisha government holds the Mukteshwar Dance Festival of Odissi on the temple’s lawn, with the lit torana behind the dancers. Shivaratri brings the old town’s families here with bilva leaves before dawn.

The life of this place

  1. c. 950–975The temple and its torana are built.
Visiting

Open to all; it sits off the Old Town road a short way from Lingaraja. Go at dusk when the torana is lit.