Standing

Udayagiri and Khandagiri Caves

Twin hills outside Bhubaneswar cut with rock dwellings for Jain munis by Kharavela, the Chedi king of Kalinga, whose Hathigumpha inscription is the fullest record of any Indian king of his time.

Built: 2nd–1st century BCE, Kharavela of Kalinga and his successorsWhere: OdishaDeity: Jain Tirthankaras20.26° N, 85.79° E
  1. 2nd–1st century BCE
  2. 1837
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 3.0

01Kumari Parvata

The inscriptions call Udayagiri Kumari Parvata and Khandagiri Kumara Parvata. Udayagiri has eighteen caves, Khandagiri fifteen. They are cells, not temples: low rooms with stone benches where the munis slept through the rains, opening on verandas. The largest, the two-storeyed Rani Gumpha, has friezes of a royal procession, dancers and a hunt. Ganesha Gumpha has elephants guarding its steps. On Khandagiri, later Jain shrines with images of the Tirthankaras are still in worship, and a temple of Parshvanatha stands on the summit.

02The Hathigumpha inscription

Seventeen lines in Prakrit, cut on the brow of a natural cavern, open with a salutation to the Arhats and the Siddhas and then go through Kharavela’s reign year by year: the repair of Kalinga’s capital after a storm, campaigns west and north, a march on Magadha, and the return of the image of the Kalinga Jina that a Nanda king had carried away. It also mentions a canal first opened by a Nanda king. For the history of Kalinga after Ashoka it is the single most important text.

The life of this place

  1. 2nd–1st century BCEKharavela has caves cut for Jain munis and records his reign at Hathigumpha.
  2. 1837James Prinsep publishes the first reading of the Hathigumpha inscription.
Visiting

About 7 km west of central Bhubaneswar, open sunrise to sunset; the climb is short but steep in places. Go early to avoid the monkeys’ busiest hours.