01The middle of Mahadev
Madhya means middle. Of the bull that sank into the earth, the navel rose here, and the linga in the sanctum is of black stone, shaped like a navel. Bhima, the Kedar Khanda tradition says, built this temple and worshipped Mahadev in it. Beside it are a shrine of Mata Parvati and one of Ardhanarishvara, and to the right a small shrine of Devi Saraswati in white marble. The water of the temple precinct is held so pure that a few drops are enough for a bath. Up on the ridge above stands Vriddha Madmaheshwar, a tiny blackened shrine that looks straight across at Chaukhamba.
02Winter at Ukhimath
Like Kedarnath, Madhyamaheshwar is served by Jangam priests of the Veerashaiva tradition from Karnataka. When the doors close for winter, the utsava murti comes down in a doli to the Omkareshwar temple at Ukhimath, which is also the winter seat of Kedarnath, and there both are worshipped until spring. The return of the doli to the high temple each year is a great day in the villages along the way, Ransi, Gaundar and Bantoli, which give shelter and food to pilgrims.
Drive to Ransi beyond Ukhimath, then walk about 16 km through Gaundar; most pilgrims take two days. Doors open around May and close in November; in winter take darshan at Omkareshwar, Ukhimath.
