Standing

Veerabhadra Temple, Lepakshi

A Vijayanagara temple on a tortoise-shaped rock, with the largest ceiling paintings of the empire, a pillar that does not touch the floor and a giant Nandi outside.

Built: 1530s, the brothers Virupanna and Viranna under Achyuta Deva Raya of VijayanagaraWhere: Andhra PradeshDeity: Bhagwan Veerabhadra, with shrines of Shiva, Vishnu and Durga13.80° N, 77.61° E
  1. 1530s
Photo: Nagesh Kamath · CC BY-SA 2.0

01Rise, bird

Here, the local tradition says, Jatayu fell after fighting Ravana to save Sita, and Shri Rama found him and said ‘le pakshi’, rise, O bird. A huge footprint on the rock is shown as Sita’s. The temple was built in the 1530s by Virupanna, the governor of Penukonda under Achyuta Deva Raya, and his brother Viranna. A katha told at the temple says Virupanna was accused of spending the royal treasury on it and blinded himself before the king’s men could; two dark stains on a wall of the unfinished kalyana mandapa are shown as the marks.

02Paintings, a serpent and a hanging pillar

The ceiling of the natya mandapa is painted with scenes from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana and the Puranas in mineral colours, and over the main shrine is a Veerabhadra painting several metres long, the largest single painting left from Vijayanagara. Outside, a seven-hooded Naga coils over a Shivalinga, carved from one boulder. One of the hall’s pillars hangs a hair’s breadth above the floor, and visitors pass a cloth beneath it. About 200 m away lies a monolithic Nandi, among the largest in India, facing the Nagalinga.

The life of this place

  1. 1530sVirupanna and Viranna build the Veerabhadra temple under Achyuta Deva Raya.
Visiting

About 15 km off the Bengaluru–Hyderabad highway near Hindupur. Look up as soon as you enter the hall.

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