Standing

Kalijai Temple, Chilika

A small island in Chilika, Asia’s largest brackish-water lake, carries the shrine of Kalijai, guardian of everyone who crosses its waters. At Makar Sankranti boats come from every shore of the lake.

Built: Island shrine in Chilika lake; worship of the boatmen and fisherfolk of the lakeWhere: Odisha (Khordha district, Chilika lake)Deity: Kalijai, a form of the Devi19.64° N, 85.32° E
Photo: Aruni Nayak · CC BY-SA 3.0

01The bride in the storm

The song of the lake tells of Jai, a young bride of the Chilika shore, who was being taken by boat to her husband’s village when a storm rose and the boat went down. She was lost in the water, and afterwards the boatmen began to hear her voice and see her on the island; she had become the Devi of the lake. Kali and Jai joined in her name. Fishermen and boatmen offer to her before they go out, and no one crosses this part of Chilika without folding their hands towards the island.

02Makar Sankranti on the water

The Kalijai Yatra at Makar Sankranti in January is the great fair, when hundreds of boats crowd the island and families picnic on the shore. On other days the shrine is visited by the boats that take tourists out to see the dolphins of Chilika and the winter birds of the lake. Balugaon and Barkul on the western shore are the usual starting points. Coconuts, red cloth and bangles are the usual offerings.

Visiting

Boats from Barkul or Balugaon take about 30–45 minutes. Lake weather turns quickly; go in the morning.