Standing

Bijli Mahadev, Kullu

A wooden Shiva temple on a ridge at about 2,460 m above the meeting of the Beas and Parvati rivers. Lightning, the temple’s tradition says, strikes its tall staff and shatters the linga, and the priest joins it again with butter.

Built: Ancient hill shrine; wooden temple renewed many timesWhere: Himachal Pradesh (Kullu district)Deity: Bhagwan Shiva as Bijli Mahadev31.92° N, 77.15° E
Photo: Akshat Sharma · CC BY-SA 4.0

01Lightning and butter

Before the temple rises a wooden staff some 60 feet tall. The people of the valley say that Mahadev draws the lightning to himself here so that it does not fall on the villages below, and that every so many years a bolt strikes and breaks the linga to pieces. The pujari gathers the pieces and sets them together with makkhan, butter, and the linga is whole again. Visitors are shown the butter-bound linga in the small sanctum. The hill itself is called Mathan, and the Kullu telling connects it with a serpent asura, Kulant, whom Shiva slew here, from whose name some derive Kullu.

02The climb

A road climbs from Kullu by Chansari to the foot of the ridge, and from there it is a steep walk of about 3 km through deodar forest to the open meadow on top. From the meadow you see the Kullu valley one way and the Parvati valley the other. Snow closes the path in winter; Shravan and the summer months bring the crowds.

Visiting

About 22 km from Kullu by road to the base, then about 3 km on foot. Open roughly March to November.