01Ashtavakra’s Lord
The katha of the place: in Satya Yuga, at the wedding of Shri Lakshmi and Narayana, the muni Subrata was slighted by Indra, and in his anger his body bent in eight places. He became Ashtavakra, the eight-times-bent, and sat in tapas here until Mahadev blessed him. So Shiva at this place is Vakreshwar, Lord of the bent one. The Stotram gives the peetha in two lines: at Vakreshwar the manas fell, Vakranath is the Bhairava, the river there is Papahara and the Devi Mahishamardini. Our list and most popular lists say the bhrumadhya, the point between the eyebrows, and a stone of that form is worshipped in her shrine. Shakti Peetha lists differ.
02The hot kunds
Bakreshwar is known across Bengal for its hot springs. The village names ten kunds, among them Agni Kunda, the hottest, and Bhairav, Khar, Surya, Brahma, Amrita, Dudh and Shwet Ganga, along with Papahara Ganga and Baitarani Ganga; pilgrims bathe in the cooler ones before darshan. Around the kunds stand the temples of Bakranath, Mahishamardini, Bhavatarini and the Bhairava. Mahashivaratri brings lakhs, and a winter fair is held in Paush. The great thermal power station a few kilometres off is named after the tirtha.
Suri is about 20 km and Dubrajpur station is the nearest railhead. Test the water with your hand first; Agni Kunda is far too hot to touch.
