Standing

Neelakandeswarar Temple, Tiruneelakkudi

The Lord who held the halahala in His throat, whose rough linga drinks every drop of the sesame oil poured on it. Appar sang it after being thrown into the sea tied to a stone.

Built: Early Chola structural temple, with later Pandya and Vijayanagara additionsWhere: Tamil Nadu (Thanjavur district)Deity: Bhagwan Shiva as Neelakandeswarar (Manogyanathar); Devi as Anupamasthani (Oppilamulaiyal) and Bhaktabheeshta Pradayini10.99° N, 79.48° E
Photo: பா.ஜம்புலிங்கம் · CC BY-SA 4.0

01Oil for the poison

At the churning of the ocean, the halahala rose first, and Shiva drank it to save the worlds; Parvati held His throat so it went no further, and He became Neelakantha. Here, the temple says, She soothed Him with oil. The abhishekam of gingelly oil is the heart of worship: tin after tin is poured on the small, rough-surfaced linga, and by morning it looks dry. Devotees take a little of the oil home as medicine. Appar’s hymn on this temple, beginning Kallinodu, recalls how he was bound to a stone and cast into the sea, and floated. Markandeya, Kamadhenu and Brahma are also named among those who worshipped here.

Visiting

About 3 km from Aduthurai and 13 km from Kumbakonam, beside the Kumbakonam–Karaikal road. There is no rajagopuram; the Chithirai festival is the main celebration.