Standing

Nand Bhavan (Nand Baba Temple), Nandgaon

The house of Nanda Baba on Nandishvar hill, where Krishna is worshipped as a cowherd boy with his foster parents and his brother. With Barsana it makes the pair of villages of Braj’s Lathmar Holi.

Built: Hilltop temple on Nandishvar hill; the present building is of the 18th centuryWhere: Uttar Pradesh (Mathura district)Deity: Nanda Baba, Yashoda, Krishna and Balarama27.71° N, 77.39° E
Photo: Hemant Shesh · CC BY-SA 4.0

01Nanda’s household

When the harassment of Kamsa made Gokul unsafe, Braj tradition says, Nanda moved his herds and his people to this hill, which is worshipped as a form of Mahadev, Nandishvar. Krishna’s boyhood after Gokul belongs here and in the forests around. The temple on the top is a family shrine more than a palace: Nanda and Yashoda stand with Krishna and Balarama, with Krishna’s friends Shridama and Madhumangal. Below the hill is Pavan Sarovar, where the cows were bathed, and the Ashteshwar Mahadev shrine.

02Holi in Nandgaon

On the Dashami before Holi, the day after Barsana’s Lathmar Holi, the men of Barsana come to Nandgaon with their shields, and the women of Nandgaon take up the staves. The courtyard of Nand Bhavan fills with gulal and with the hori songs of Braj, sung in the same words for generations. Pilgrims on the Braj chaurasi kos parikrama halt here, and many go on from Nandgaon to Kokilavan, the Shani shrine nearby.

Visiting

Nandgaon is about 8 km north of Barsana and 50 km from Mathura; steps and a road climb the hill.