01Brahma’s fifth head
The Shiva Purana tells how, in the dispute over who was supreme, Brahma’s fifth head spoke in pride. From Mahadev’s wrath came Bhairava, who cut off that head with his nail. The skull clung to his hand, and carrying the sin of brahmahatya he wandered through the three worlds until he entered Kashi, where the skull fell at the place called Kapal Mochan. Shiva then made him the Kotwal of Kashi, the keeper of its gates and the judge of its people, so that even Yama has no authority in the city. Kaal Bhairav Ashtami, in Margashirsha, is his day.
02Taking leave
The custom of Kashi is that a pilgrim first visits Kaal Bhairav before darshan of Vishwanath, or at least before leaving, and many priests say a stay in Kashi is not complete without it. At the shrine a black thread, the kala dhaga, is tied on the wrist for protection, and the priests tap devotees on the back with the peacock-feather staff. Only the silver face of the murti is seen; the rest is covered in cloth and garlands. Sweets and, by old custom, liquor are among the offerings. Dogs, Bhairav’s vahana, are fed in the lanes around.
The temple is in the Bhaironath lanes north of Vishweshwarganj, about 2 km from Kashi Vishwanath; go by cycle-rickshaw or on foot.
