01The Devi in yellow
Baglamukhi is Pitambara, the one dressed in yellow, who holds the tongue of the asura Madan in one hand and a club in the other, and stops all hostile speech. At Nalkheda the Devi is in a three-faced form with Mahalakshmi and Mahasaraswati joined to her, which the temple counts as rare. The temple’s katha says the Pandavas, advised by Shri Krishna, worshipped her here during their exile to win their war. The courtyard is full of havan kunds, and the priests use yellow cloth, yellow flowers, turmeric and chana dal.
02On the Lakhundar
The temple stands on the bank of the Lakhundar river at the edge of Nalkheda town, among old trees. It is one of three famous Baglamukhi seats in the country, with Datia’s Pitambara Peeth and Bankhandi in Kangra. Navratri and the Baglamukhi Jayanti in Vaishakha are the great days, and politicians are among the most regular visitors, which the town knows well. Devotees wear yellow when they come, and yellow sweets are given as prasad.
Nalkheda is about 100 km from Ujjain and 160 km from Indore. Havans are booked at the temple office.
